With the arrival in Mexico of the
retrospective art exhibition of one of the most important Japanese artists of
our time: Infinite Obsession of Yayoi Kusama , I started thinking about great
personalities of fashion, art and Japanese architecture. Many say Japan lacks
of design, as an example just look for their flag, a red dot in the center of a
white rectangle. What they don´t know is that it is more than a dot, is a sign
that Japan is "the land of the rising sun." Land that gave birth to
great artists such as Kenzo Takada , Yohji Yamamoto, Junya Watanabe , Rei
Kawakubo , Takashi Murakami, Toyo Ito, among others ...
Yayoi Kusama
One of the most important visual artists in
Japan and the reason why I decided to write this entry for the blog.
Her nearly six decades of experience, starts
with her solo exhibitions, at the age of 23 years. After crossing several time
zones, she moved to New York. Leaving aside her paintings and sculpture, she
chooses a series of happenings, in which she painted nude participants with
colored dots.
She was pioneer of pop art and minimalist
art, becoming influence to artists like Andy Warhol and Swedish sculptor, Claes
Oldenburg
In 1968, Kusama established Kusama
Fashion Company Ltd., and began selling avantgarde fashion in the
"Kusama Corner" at Bloomingdales. In 2009, Kusama designed a
handbag-shaped cell phone entitled Handbag for Space Travel, My
Doggie Ring-Ring, a pink dotted phone in accompanying dog-shaped holder, and a
red and white dotted phone inside a mirrored, dotted box dubbed Dots
Obsession, Full Happiness With Dots, for Japanese mobile communication
giant KDDI Corporation´s "iida" Brand. Each phone was limited to
1000 pieces. In 2011, Kusama created artwork for six limited-edition lipglosses
from Lancôme
In 2013, she launched, in collaboration with
the French fashion house Louis Vuitton, the "Infinity Dots"
collection, including leather goods, ready-to-wear, accessories, shoes,
watches, and jewelry, which are now considered collector's items. This
collaboration, brig her back into the eye of the expectators and the
opportunity to share her vision of the world.
In late 2013 she produced a series of
photographs for W Magazine, using George Clooney as her model, all covered in
Polka dots, Kusama´s trademark.
Since 1977, she in 1977 she voluntarily
admitted herself into a psychiatric hospital where she has remained ever
since. Nowadays, at the age of 80, she keeps on producing art and literary
works, including poems, novels and “Infinity Nets”, her autobiography.
“I think I will be able to, in
the end, rise above the clouds and climb the stairs to heaven, and I will look
down on my beautiful life.” –Yayoi Kusama
Takashi Murakami
Before the collaboration between Louis
Vuitton and Yayoi, we must mention the one between Takashi Murakami and
Vuitton, which dates back to the year 2003 when Marc Jacobs, creative director
of the brand, suggested to work hand in hand. He developed incredible designs,
doing refresh to the old house of leather goods, founded in 1854, and his
monogram, shifting Louis Vuitton´s monochromatic logo to a world of fantasy and
color.
A.k.a, Mr.DOB, a kind of alter ego, Murakami
also attracted the attention of Kanye West who entrusted him the art of his
album Graduation
In 2011 he designed Google´s doodles for
summer and winter solstice for the northern and south hemispheres respectively
And last but not least, he is the owner of
Kaikai Kiki Co., Ltd., a company dedicated to the support and representation of
emerging artists. In April 2013, he premiered his first feature film: Jellyfish
Eyes
Yohji Yamamoto
Another artist that caught my eye, was Yohji
Yamamoto, who in addition to his Bachelor of Laws, he is an outstanding
designer of the boom of hip Japanese designers, who in conjunction with with
fellow Japanese avant-garde fashion designer like Kenzo Takada, and Rei
Kawakubo, of whom we´ll talk about later, revolutionized the Parisian fashion
scene in the 80s.
His talent led him to receive a pair of
awards and recognitions, such as the Legion of Honor by the French government,
making him the first Japanese to receive it.
Despite his elite credentials, Yamamoto has
expanded its business exponentially. Now has more than 333 outlets worldwide,
an unprecedented collaboration with Adidas (Y-3), five fragrances and casual
collections, Y's Women (established 1973) and Y's for men (1971). "Juste
des vêtements", was his first major solo exhibition, held in 2005 at the
"Musée de la Mode de Paris". As if that were not enough, Yamamoto is
also a Karate Black belt, and the president of Karatenomichi World Federation
(KWF) an elite international non-profit karate organisation with its
headquarters in Tokyo, Japan.
Kenzo Takada
Another Japanese designer of the Parisian
fashion scene in the 80s, is Kenzo Takada, world-renowned for the vibrant
colors and the unpredictable patterns of his looks.
In 1993, the LVMH group acquired the company
and designated Italian designer Antonio Marras, as the head of Kenzo. He
occupied this position for almost ten seasons until the creators of the brand
Opening Ceremony-a multi brand store which also had its own designs opened in
New York in 2002, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, were appointed by LVMH to try to
revitalize it. The creative duo, friends since childhood, achieved in just two
seasons, the miracle of returning his prêt-à-porter to the sidewalks of cities
worldwide, Kenzo designs convert a reference to any thoughtful person to trends
and return to its core brand founded by Takada.
Rei Kawakubo
Along with the duo of the aforementioned
Japanese designers, Rei Kawakubo deserves a special mention. In 1973, she
created her first fashion line and early in the 80's, she decided to make the
leap to the West and went to Paris. The arrival of Comme des Garçons to The
City of Light, was celebrated as an intellectualized and intense fashion. Dark
and reflective. Deep black and meaningful. One of those trends that you either
love it or hate it. "Hiroshima chic" some critics called it.
She re-invented the concept of pop-up stores
or "guerrilla stores'' in hip, yet-to-be-gentrified areas in cities around
the world, including Mexico City. The shops, which are installed in raw urban
spaces, where you can find ''seasonless'' merchandise drawn from current and
past collections.
Here in Mexico we had (or have) the fortune
of having one of these guerrilla stores, located on the top floor of
HEADQUARTER (Colima 244, Colonia Roma)
You can also find her designs on Common
People (Emilio Castelar # 149 in Polanco)
Junya Watanabe
Sheltered by Kawakubo, Junya Watanabe, as
well as other fashion designers have flourished and have made their own way.
Watanabe graduated from Bunka Fashion College
in 1984, and immediately joined "Comme des Garcons" as a pattern
cutter. In 1987 he created the design of his own line "Tricot". In
1992 he presented his first collection, a year later, he was among the big
names in fashion at Paris Fashion Week.
Nowadays, although he designs under his own
name, he is still working for "Comme des Garçons".
Japanese design it is not limited only to the
world of fashion. In the field of architecture, Japan is the country that most
times it has been awarded the Pritzker Prize, the highest recognition in this
discipline
Shigeru Ban
This year the award went to Shigeru Ban,
pioneer in the implementation of the cardboard as a construction material.
Author of projects such as the Pompidou Center Metz in France and Cardboard
Cathedral in New Zealand.
Toyō Itō
Previously
the award was received by architect Toyō Itō, considered one of the most
innovative and influential architects. His works includes The Hotel Porta Fira
in Barcelona, The World Games Stadium in Taiwan, Torre Realia BCN, Sendai
Mediatheque building, Taiwan International Airport.
Kazuyo Sejima
Another winner of the Pritzker Prize, is the
architect Kazuyo Sejima. In 2010, she starts working in the studio of Toyō Itō.
Along with Ryue Nishizawa, she founded the architectural firm SANAA (Sejima +
Nishizawa and Associates). Among her works includes the New Museum in New York,
the first SANAA project built in this city.
http://www.museotamayo.org/
http://www.newmuseum.org/
http://www.comme-des-garcons.com/
http://www.y-3.com/us/#/
http://www.yohjiyamamoto.co.jp/
https://www.kenzo.com/en/
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